I made the mistake of visiting Scale Model Supplies a few weeks ago. Scale Model Supplies is an old-style hobby shop in St. Paul. It’s been around for a long, long time and has tons of stock. Not just model railroad stock, but they do have a lot of model railroad stock. A lot.
I managed to get out for only about $40, but that’s mainly because I didn’t go down all the aisles with model railroad stuff in them. One of the items I picked up was a laser cut kit to build a freight house. It was produced by Northeastern Scale Models, but they appear to have gone out of business. No matter.
This post will be picture heavy. Because I took a lot of pictures. 🙂
I bought it because it’s visually interesting, and it has an amusing name. If you are unaware of where the name comes from, you need to go watch Young Frankenstein. Interestingly enough, the word “Blucher” is not German for “glue” as is commonly thought. The horse whinny was just added because the producers thought it was funny.
I’ve started building some laser cut buildings for my model railroad. I figured that I could get a head start buy assembling some buildings in the winter, before I can start building the actual layout itself.
The best way to paint models, rail road or other, is with an air brush. Second best is to “rattle can” it with cans of spray paint. Neither of these are recommended indoor activities without some method of venting the fumes.
This weekend I did a bunch of maintenance on the Subaru and the Miata.
I started out with the Subaru. Since we’ve been having some overheating issues when pulling the trailer I figured I’d replace the radiator and flush and refill the coolant. I also replaced the radiator hoses and thermostat since I was there already.
See if you can guess why the car was overheating based on this photo:
I probably could have just hosed the stuff off and re-used the radiator, but I figured after 200,000 miles the interior was probably silted up a little, and a new one was pretty cheap insurance.
The fluid that came out was pretty nasty looking. I’m afraid that I might have a leaking head gasket since it may have been using coolant a little bit. I have a tester for that and will use it later today. I don’t really want to do head gaskets on this car, but since I recently did it on a friend’s car I know what’s involved and that it can be done without pulling the motor.
After replacing the radiator I also changed the oil and filter since it was due.
Then it was on to the Miata. My friend Ben showed up in time to help with the Miata and I was happy to have him there. It was easier to do some of the things with two people.
First we lifted up the car. Luckily the jack I have fits under the front of the car and, as we discovered, it will lift it high enough that I can put my old ramps under the front wheels. Excellent.
Lifting the rear was a little trickier. The jack didn’t fit under the exhaust (it might fit if the front was not in the air) so we had to go in from the side at an angle. We also had to make sure we didn’t block the location for the jack stand. But we got it up!
I drained the radiator and we replaced the coolant tank. They are plastic, part of the pressurized system and tend to go bad and crack. Cheap insurance to replace it.
Next we crawled underneath and drained the transmission. Easy enough. After it drained we refilled it with the “magic” Ford synth transmission fluid. It’s supposed to make it shift better and the driving I did today seems to support that. Here is where it was really easier to have two people. One to hold the filler hose in the hole and one to run the pump.
After that was done it was on to the differential. Ben pulled the drain plug and then was going to pull the fill plug, but the wrench was too big. What? Mazda, in their infinite wisdom, decided that on the diff the fill plug needed to be a 23mm hex, instead of a 24mm hex like the drain on the diff and both plugs on the transmission.
Why? Who the heck knows?
Do you know how difficult it is to find a 23mm socket? I have a 22mm. I have a 24mm… 23mm is not a normally used size.
So we started driving.
We went to the local Ace hardware. Nope. No 23mm socket.
We went to Home Depot. Nope. No 23mm socket.
We went to Harbor Freight. Surely they will have one. Nope. No 23mm socket.
While we were standing in Harbor Freight Ben looked up Northern Tool on his phone and their web site said they had one. He called them to verify they really had one in stock: “Sure, we have one.” Great. Drive to Woodbury it is then. They did have one. Several actually, 6pt, 12pt, deep, standard. So if you need odd sockets Northern Tool is apparently the place.
So now I have a 23mm socket. It cost all of $3.50. I’ll put in the drawer next to all the other one-off sockets I’ve collected from working on vehicles.
We got home, pulled the fill plug and filled the diff. Whee.
The Miata now drives and shifts great.
Today I’m finishing the coolant flush on the Miata and later I’ll test for hydrocarbons in the coolant on the Subaru. Cross your fingers for me that I don’t find any, because I don’t really want to do the head gaskets if I don’t have to.
Still to do on the Miata today (I’m typing this as I take a break) is to mount the temperature sensor behind the bumper and run some wires for the mirror temp display. I’ll get that done since I already have all the plastic off the bottom of the car. It’s a bit of a pain to pull all that plastic, so as long as it’s off I’ll get this part done at least.
I’m still waiting on some connectors before I can finish wiring up the mirror, but it’s getting closer.
Yesterday I installed an LED light strip in the trunk of the Miata.
The stock light is in the rear wall, down low and doesn’t illuminate the trunk at all if you have anything in it.
On the Miata forum people were talking about putting additional light into the trunk using these LED strip lights.
I removed the interior plastic so I could run a set of wires from the existing light location to up under the front lip. There was a nice place that was a perfect fit to stick the LED strip up with double-stick tape. I cable tied the new wires to the existing harness that runs around the trunk and spliced them into the wires for the existing light.
I was hoping that moving to a newer car would allow me to avoid things breaking for a while, but apparently I was mistaken.
A few days ago the passenger side window decided to stop rolling up. The windows are power windows, so it could be a couple of issues.
According to the forums there is a common issue where the window switch module has bad solder joints on the connector. So I took the center console apart and pulled out the switch module. Taking it apart and inspecting it revealed no obviously bad solder joints, but I re-flowed all the pins anyway.
Plugging the switch module back into the harness in the car and trying to close the passenger window showed that the problem still existed, so I guess that wasn’t the cause. Pewp.
I decided the next troubleshooting step was to pull the door panel off and try and operate the window motor by directly applying 12V to it.
Pulling off the door panel was no more difficult than other cars – remove three screws and pull the panel until the panel clips pop free. Once the panel was off, the window motor connector was easy to access.
To test it you need a 12 volt power supply, or a battery. I had a spare motorcycle battery laying around which worked great. The lower outer pins are the motor pins. You need two jumpers.
If you apply positive to the left pin and ground the right pin the window will go down. Reverse the polarity and the window should go up. Mine went up and down just fine, so it wasn’t the motor. I left the window in the middle and plugged in the connector again, then I tried the switch. The window went down, but not up, same as before. Since the motor worked with direct power applied, it must be the switch.
So I reassembled the door and took the center console apart again.
I disassembled the switch assembly to do some more troubleshooting. I took my multimeter and checked out the drivers side switch. Lifting the switch and probing the terminals determined that the center terminal on the left and the lower right terminal were connected when rolling up the window.
Testing the same terminals on the passenger switch showed that the terminals were not connected when the switch was lifted up. So the switch is bad. Since the switch was bad anyway I decided to open it up and take a look. I carefully pried the top off, removed the two switch bars and was greeted by with this sight.
Well there’s yer problem. Look at all that carbon from arcing.
I cleaned the switch body and the two switch bars with some contact cleaner and rubbing the contacts with a small popsicle type stick. They cleaned up really well.
I lubed up the contacts and the pivot points with a small application of dielectric grease and snapped the switch back together. Testing with the multi-meter showed that the switch was working correctly so I went out and plugged it into the harness to test it. It worked!
Saved myself the cost of a switch assembly (about $90)!