More ‘production’ work on the ShapeOko

I guess I neglected to post about putting the top profile on the 1911 grips. I came up with a good tool chain – I drew the part as a solid model in Autodesk Inventor, exported an STL file and machined it with FreeMill (can’t beat the price.) It was pretty easy and turned out quite well.

Top surface profile.

Top surface profile.

I used a 1/4″ ball end mill with a .030″ step over and they came out pretty smooth. Just hit them with a little sandpaper and they will be ready for finish. Sweet. The program took about 15 minutes to run – much less time than doing it by hand and much more accurate.

I also played around with engraving, but I still need to figure out how to map the image onto the surface to generate the tool path.

I also needed to run off a couple of inserts to hold .50 BMG rounds in an ammo can. These are made up of 1-1/2″ glued up MDF stock. They have a relief cut into the back and a bunch of 1-1/16″ deep, 13/16″ diameter holes in them.

Milling the relief pocket.

Milling the relief pocket.

In the past I used the router table and the drill press to make these, but I thought the ShapeOko would possibly be better.

Well, the jury is out on this one still. Milling the relief in the back worked fine, but was a little slower than using the router table. I could probably get more aggressive with the depth per pass and make it a wash.

Boring the holes was slow and a little frustrating. I started with a 1/4″ two flute down-spiral carbide router bit and got about 30 holes done before I decided that was not going to do it. It was at least twice as slow as using the drill press.

Then I realized that I had a 1/2″ diameter two flute straight carbide bit with a 1/4″ shank. That made the holes take half as long since they could be done in one pass.

Boring the holes.

Boring the holes.

But… MDF is hard on bits. The bits are pretty dull now and you could tell the difference from the first hole to the last with the 1/2″ bit. I have ordered some higher quality bits to try and will see if I can sharpen the straight bit again.

But the MDF also caused sharpness issues with the Forstner bits I was using in the drill press, so this is not really a mill related issue.

The other annoying thing was having to pause to move the clamps out of the way. I had to re-position them due to the fact that the dust shield ran into them because the bits are not long enough.

But I have a plan in the back of my head on how to deal with that issue…


Running total costs.

All Shapeoko CNC Mill Posts.

Milled my first set of grips!

I fixed up my grip fixture and milled the perimeter profile on a pair of grips tonight!

Grip Fixture

Grip Fixture

 

I also learned a few things:

1. No matter how tight the dowels are in the holes, put some double sided tape under the blank. I had the first one lift a little near the end.

2. The straight router bit does a better job than the spiral down cut bit. At least in oak it did. Actually the finish was about the same in the end.

3. I can speed up the feeds and increase the depth of each pass. I was pretty conservative for the first go-round.

Here is a close up – they look pretty good.

Closeup

Closeup

Now I need to figure out the software tool chain to profile the tops. Then I can play around with engraving and machine checkering.

Oh boy, fun, fun!


Running total costs.

All Shapeoko CNC Mill Posts.

Even more accuracy for the ShapeOko

I’ve been boring holes through some 3/4″ thick MDF recently and having a little trouble with it.

The blanks are about 3″ x 6″ and I’m boring 50 holes in them. When I set them up I put a pair of parallels under them in the vice and tighten the screw.

The problem I’m having is that the first holes go all the way through, like I want, but when I get down to the other end of the block the holes are a little short. The depth that I’m boring them to is .790″, so what gives?

This evening I did some investigating and discovered a few interesting things.

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Server Upgrade Fun

My Ubuntu server that powers this blog hasn’t been upgraded for a while. The uptime was 450+ days and the Message of the Day was telling me I needed to reboot for some thing or another.

So I decided to do the dist-upgrade. What could go wrong?

Well, I’m still finding out. I’m not even sure what version I was running. 11.something I think. It was upgraded to 12.04.2 LTS.

What broke:

mysql – it appears to have removed the server application and not installed a new one. I had to install mysql-server (and dependencies) to get it running again.

sqlgrey – something changed so that it only listened on the ipv6 localhost address. I had to edit the config to force it to 127.0.0.1.

postfix – another ipv6 issue, so I disabled ipv6 in /etc/sysctl.conf

mailman – lost it’s template files. I believe they moved, maybe I originally installed from source, I don’t remember. I had to hunt down the template files (which were on the disk in /usr/share/mailman) and change the link to them.

carbon/graphite/whisper – not sure what happened here. I had to reinstall whisper and carbon. Graphite web pages were dorked up because python-whisper appears to have been removed and not re-installed.

That’s all I’ve found so far. Some fun.

And ironically, before I upgraded my Ubuntu server, I patched and rebooted my Windows 2003 server. In the past this has been a risky action, but today – flawless. Go figger.

 

Shoes for the ShapeOko

Dust shoes that is.

I finally got a dust shoe finished up last night and I couldn’t be happier. I managed to run several unattended jobs over the past two evenings!

By unattended I mean I didn’t have to stand over the machine with the shop-vac hose in my hand. I setup the job, turned on the router and the vacuum and pressed go. Then I could wander around the basement and do other things while it ran. Bliss!

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Chasing Accuracy – Part 2

Part one was running the Circle Diamond Square test, which indicated I had a problem. Part two is starting to solve some of the accuracy issues, and discovering some more.

I posted the results of the CDS test on the ShapeOko forum and another member suggested that the results indicated that my X and Y axis were not square.

I attempted to square them up by squaring the Y axis rails to the rear plate, and then making sure that the back edges of the X carriage plates were the same distance from the rear plate. Then I ran the CDS test again. Same results.

Today I investigated further.

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